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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Factory installed Throbaks with custom pots and caps. After market wood knobs, wood rings and bridge. Rosewood 25.5 fingerboard. Worth the wait.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    Here is Guit's custom with the tiny blocks. It was done out of house.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Hi all, My name is Todd, from Warren Michigan. i hang out with a bunch of guys from the Dr Z amps forum and a big fan and user of Dr Z amps. a buddy of mine hosted an event at his house this past summer after recently purchasing a few Heritage guitars. I have been aware of Heritage guitars but have never had one in my hands before. I was very impressed and have been casually looking and learning since then. Looking forward to learning more about these fine instruments and who make them. My background, I own Pro Cables N Sound, we make high end musical instrument cables. I play lead guitar for my local church praise band and have been playing in various bands 30 plus years. I have 2 sons who both play guitar, my wife plays bass and daughter is learning drums. Lots of guitars and amps in our house! We are a Scouting family, both my son's are Eagle Scouts, we are active in our local church. I am the youth leader for our high school age kids and have been working with the students to start a band. Todd
  6. 2 points
    that's the riff from "heart of the sunrise" by Yes, he's quoting in his 1st solo I'd say the P90 SG might be better suited to whacking Abbie Hoffman, than the 575
  7. 2 points
    Shipping and receiving's all in the basement, Rich, my turf. And keeping up with inventory, paypal, e-mails, who ordered what, re-ordering from various vendors, robbing Peter to pay Paul to re-supply, getting it all to gigs for our merch guy to flog it there, re-folding shirts the day after a gig after people paw through them, updating the website store about back ordered items, making sure I get to the bank the day before to get change, shlepping mailers to the post office, et.al. for four-and-a-half years has worn me out (All of this by way of letting you know how glamorous Show-Biz really is!). But...when an order comes in, and I recognize it's Fred, or Scott, Paul, Rich, or Kuz, Lyle or any of the rest of you who've supported me and the band by throwing down your hard-earned cabbage to make a purchase, the bump I get from that really makes it worth it...you bet! Thanks, all!! The people on this forum are pretty special.
  8. 1 point
    Well...not positive what I've gotten myself into besides being positive that I'm in over my head. https://reverb.com/item/15140750-heritage-stat-1989-unfinished Was curious if anyone could guess what model this would have been? I think I know it's a Stat but that's about all. It looks like it's routed for a coil tap, master volume, master tone, and a three way toggle but I have never seen a Stat without either the individual mini toggles or a blade switch. From some additional pictures I got, it looks like it's an 87 instead of an 89 from a pencil date mark in the neck pickup cavity. Any thoughts or input is appreciated!
  9. 1 point
    Alright, I am really jazzed to have purchased my first Heritage. I just bought a used H-150 from a great music store in Atlanta called Atlanta Discount Music. My H-150 has a faded top that's a cross between a dirty lemon burst and an almond burst with a AA to AAA flame top. Mine was made in 1994. To me , it is really great to know that my guitar was hand made by the guys and ladies that have some great history with Gibson guitars. I have been recommending Heritage guitars to all of my musician friends. Next, I'll be buying a H-535.
  10. 1 point
    This might be it. Did you have Ren fit it with some new knobs at a PSP?
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    It must be a Heritage. Mine has that same chord on it.
  13. 1 point
    I've heard similar about new vs. old Kahlers. The new Kahlers are directly compatible with the old Kahler 2300 Pro series, which is what would go on this Stat. It's literally four screws into the body in exactly the same spots as on the old ones. You can install and remove them in a matter of a couple minutes. I've had some of both (currently have a 1986 Charvel and a 1987 Jackson with vintage Kahlers). I did find that the return-to-pitch on the new ones was not quite as true as on the older Kahlers. The relative tuning stability between the strings is just fine on both, but sometimes the cam on the newer ones is less likely to return to as close to the zero point as on the old ones. Even on the older ones, the return on bending down vs. pulling up on the bar will be to slightly different places. In other words, pulling up and returning will make the guitar go slightly sharp compared to bending the bar down and returning it. There's basically nothing you can do about this. On my Kahlers, I only bend the bar down and set the tuning for that. You might be better off buying a vintage Kahler on eBay and then refurbishing it as needed with parts from Wammi World. The saddles are the most likely thing that would need to be replaced; the baseplate, cam and springs should be good to go on almost any vintage used Kahler 2300 you buy. Be careful not to buy a Kahler Flyer--that was the cheapo version back in the day, and it's not directly compatible with the Pro that you'd want for this Stat. Here are a few tips for dealing with Kahlers, based on my own experience: Do NOT buy a used/vintage string lock for behind the nut. Buy a new one. For whatever reason, Kahler used (and continues to use) a soft alloy for these. Eventually, the strings wear grooves in the string lock from being clamped. On every old guitar with a Kahler I buy, I immediately replace the string lock with a new one. It's the source of 90 percent of the tuning problems that people complain about with Kahlers. When you get this guitar assembled and finished, you do NOT need to crank the string lock screws very tight. Just tight enough to hold the string in place is good enough. Unlike a Floyd Rose locking nut, the Kahler string lock sits behind the nut, so the amount of pressure needed to hold the strings isn't as much. Overtightening will wear grooves in the string lock much sooner. If the neck on the Stat is set at an angle, you might need a "stacker plate" from Wammi World to shim the Kahler base plate a little higher. The roller saddles weren't meant to sit really high off the base plate, and you'll get tuning, sustain and tone problems if they do. If you buy an old vintage Kahler, odds are that the roller saddles will be gummed up and won't roll freely. This will mess up your tuning. If this is the case, remove the saddles, spray them liberally with WD40 and work the rollers until they move freely. If the rollers still don't move easily or have bad burrs, replace the saddles with new ones. You can also experiment with different roller materials for different tones. I've always preferred the brass saddles, but some folks feel the steel saddles give you closer to a strat tone. If the tension on the bar isn't enough for your liking, you can replace the two springs on the underside of the bridge with a set of heavy-duty springs that Kahler makes (originally designed for their bass trem). Jackson included these heavy springs as stock on their guitars with Kahlers back in the '80s. You'll get an improvement in sustain and return-to-pitch with these springs, but they remove some of the springiness in the bar action that I really like. Some people with Kahlers go lots of trouble to solder the ball ends on their strings when changing strings, among other things. I've never found this type of prep to be necessary. On a guitar with a properly set up Kahler and working string lock, the guitar will hold pitch pretty darned well. Not for as long as a Floyd, but much better than a vintage strat.
  14. 1 point
    And for no particular reason, here is a shot of mine.
  15. 1 point
    Before I ever really got into Doyle Brahamall II, who I've been following since he broke, I was into his dad and this record of his is GREAT.... https://www.amazon.com/Bird-Nest-Ground-Doyle-Bramhall/dp/B000003MU9
  16. 1 point
    Potential scam alert. I visited the Luxuriant Sedans website today. I ordered a CD "Fourth Gear" and I spotted what I thought was a great deal.... NOPE.... total bait & switch. I found out that for $18 you get a super cool T-shirt BUT THE R4 CUSTOM IS NOT INCLUDED!!!! Buyer beware... again for $18 you don't get the R4 Custom guitar, just a super cool T-shirt.
  17. 1 point
    It's a great album. Of course, all of the Luxuriant Sedans albums are tasty. But this one has an extra depth. There is more going on , but still in a concise, cohesive direction. All cylinders are sparking and it's tuned up and ready to ride. No turbocharger needed, just cubic inches of tone. When first putting on the album (Fourth Gear) , I notice some of the names in the writing credits. P. Butterfield, Tweety, Springsteen, L. Mack, Rodgers/ Kossoff, etc. You know this is gonna be a ride that takes you somewhere fine. And with the added layers on this album , they still haven't lost that in-your-face intensity and focus that marks them as the real deal. Each new tune opening new vistas of the signature Luxuriant Sedans tone. So stop by their site , Store at Luxuriant Sedans <<<<<<<< , and have them ship you a shiny new CD. Your speakers will thank you. And there's a Heritage rockin on this album... says so right on the cover.
  18. 1 point
    Regardless of opinion on top wraps the bottom line is that the bridge/tailpiece absolutely was designed to have a good length of travel while remaining a solid couple so as to be used on a variety of guitars with different angles & setups. It was a brilliant move (& IIRC explained as thus by Gibson engineers) to keep it when the tune-o-matic was designed for the user to tune in different amounts of force/vector/break on their guitar. It's a big part of what makes the tune-o-matic such a special design: flexibility. I even recall reading that the first tune-o-matic test run was top-wrapped from the factory! One thing is clear: It was NEVER designed with the intention to be permanently decked. That is a matter of a fickle consumer base who now sees visual variation as a sign of lack of quality or worse...claiming tone robbery!! For decades one can see guitars from California to Asia Pacific built by the thousands to exacting standards thanks to our programmable machine friends. The angles that are programmed are to suggested tolerances, they are merely a matter of opinion. I'd say, as someone who has played way too many good old american guitars: absolutist tone rules like ideal saddle height on a flattop or ideal bridge height on an arch top or ideal height of a wrap tail don't play out as having inherent superiority in real life from my experience. Worse, when you listen to luthiers/techs I've heard it all from "truss rods kill resonance" to arguing over kerfing woods. They're an insane lot who usually just justifies their method with carefully crafted rhetoric...humans y'know. In summation: if you desire a hand chiseled neck fitment and a carve hand pressed on giant rough sanding belt then you're going to be stuck with a good deal of variation. If you want those things to exact tolerances: buy a PRS or Collings etc. But, don't say the wrong top carve or wrong neck angle is a "quality" thing, that's bull****, nothing posted here was out of reasonable mechanical tolerance.
  19. 1 point
    Yoslate is right, they would have been schallers, Peter Alton has a 575 and they were on his. I think the Schallers are pretty awful they were on my 555 when I bought it and I put Symour 59's on instead. I may be wrong, but are Seth Lover's unpotted? might ad to the feedback. At the end of the day it's your choice. I bought my SD 59's used for $20 each (steal of the decade) and they sound just as good as anything else. I have come to believe that in the right hands a decent pick up will sound as good as any other if you are using over drive, I know some here will disagree but that's what I think. The SD 59's seem to be a quality pick up that will cover everything unless you want something really hot with ceramic magnets in, but you don't want those on a 575.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Huh, well through the years I've always seen a lot of variance on the pre-plaza guitars. Another pic of mine from the 00's (formerly), tailpiece decked and bridge height very shallow: IMO if they could consistently do it like this with perhaps a hair more dish to the carve that'd be the ticket.
  22. 1 point
    If they're good enough for Grandpa's pacemaker, I suppose I can allow one in my amp too. But, if I was an amp, I wouldn't want to be referred to as "runt."
  23. 1 point
    I've tried and tried and tried, but not once did it give me a kbp810 as an option.
  24. 1 point
    Twin or deluxe. Kinda underwhelming. Will not do again. Felt like I had wasted my time doing the quiz, I knew that before I did the quiz. The online "are you a sociopath?" test is more fun. I keep doing it to manipulate the results.
  25. 1 point
    Bummer... . now I have to pony up for a Dr Z or a ToneKing. Where am I going to get the cash for that?