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Gianluca

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Everything posted by Gianluca

  1. got it I own one (a V2), I prefer using it with Humbuckers, nice OD but to my taste the OCD feels better - I know apples and prunes 🙂
  2. I agree, the FD2 is a nice Overdrive ...and guitar players are past borderline crazy 😄
  3. GAS 😄 so fun, vendors in EU ran out of Fulltone ODs stock the best OCD is th v1.7 hands down (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYX8MJt4ulc) but....paying all that money an OCD it's crazy
  4. interesting post here and contributions, thanks for sharing all
  5. very nice 🙂 great looking H550 and Band
  6. rockabilly69, yes I think the Full Drive in all its version is a great Drive, great pedal boards there as usual 🙂 the v3 I think it's my favourite....maybe I'll buy one
  7. yes, just a great company as a great company should always be....times are changing
  8. thought the same abou the ground, I think the terminal connector I used is not ideal, but definitely ground needs to be better understood and wired thanks for that link, very useful, I'll check that
  9. Yes, OCD alone sold incredible numbers: 250k units. Interesting is the Ge version.
  10. ok, so a first installation test results in: - the Neck Vol switch mutes everything when engaged - a "ground" noise kicks in when rolling halfway any of the two N/B Vol POTs - general Volume lowered the rest is working and it's very interesting I need to make a better template, something that could be used on the sides too so like a box, use better wires for wiring the POTs like thinner wires I used a terminal connector that helped "plugging" the new wiring in place and I think the idea is not bad (and adopted buy others too clearly) and to get better at soldering 🙂
  11. Maybe the best contribution to the pedal industry in terms of quality and authenticity. https://guitar.com/news/gear-news/fulltone-rumoured-shutting-down-california/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_VQQ9x99Aw Incredible pedal maker, any pedal they made, IMO.
  12. received the other Alpha DPDT POT, un-wired the H150 recovered the CAPs and tubed the terminals (not shrinked) I'm following the wiring shown on this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS7YvCmop8Y the Alpha are good because they're small enough but I think a possible better solution for such a wiring are something like this: maybe allowing for less contortionism 🙂 that's how my prewiring is looking like as of now, need some more wires though I know, my soldering-fu is weak but it's been a long time I think gounding the circuit will be last thing I'm not comfortable with the idea of driving the solder iron through the wires in the controls cavity, I'll try to do the last solderings before mounting the POTs back in place 🤞 ...it should be possible
  13. indeed it's only sold as the inline picture above there are a number of solutions, but I think to use a JST for the jack plug and screw terminal connectors for "plugging" the PUs and the selector cables, only consideration that comes to mind is if the signal is better preserved with a soldering connection (maybe it is) From Seymour Douncan's diagrams I see they use .047 CAPs but I'll leave the .022 I have
  14. SD says they sell the connector with their Triple Shot Mounting Rings found another number of solutions too
  15. Thank you kbp810 and bobmeyrick 🙂 Seymour Duncan JP wiring using the toggle switch wiring is here SD colour code chart and Bareknuckle colour code chart are provided online On the Internet there's a plethora of solutions and diagrams and schematics (I was indeed subscribed to JonesyBlues' YT chan) I've found Premier Guitar's interesting mentioning the "dead zone" too So I've ordered another Alpha 500k DPDT push-push as the others (US specs) I have some PVC coated copper wire for cabling the POTs - does anyone know/think if using the tinned copper wire would be better? On a Seymour Duncan wiring pic, I liked those PCB-like connector terminals for connecting the PUs to the POTs - I'm looking for something similar.
  16. Hi All 🙂 Came back to this after some time. I posted about it some time ago but looks like my content about my H150 Gold Top is not available anymore or I wasn't able to find it. Recap: On my H150GT, the previous owner installed Bareknuckles The Mule set (the original HRWs are in the case). The Bareknuckles have four wires: black, white, green, red and bare. I wrote to the PU makers and asked if I could rewire the pots and PUs so to have split coils on each PU and out of phase B/N, all using push-push POTs. They kindly replied with two practical schematics graphs available at the following links: Coils Split Out of Phase So I bought three push-push POTs and a regular one. I plan to keep the original CAPs (if they are original). When I was younger I used to build my pedals, but that's long gone, I know how to solder but I never went more than wiring my jack cables. What I'd like to achieve is a split coil and a OOP configuration. I am not sure though how to combine the two schematics the staff at BK emailed me. Looking at them I should go with: OOP on the Bridge Volume split coils on both Tone Volumes I think the previous owner didn't do the best job ever, you can see the switch cable being almost burned, and the soldering looks a bit rough IMO. All suggestions are greatly welcome, or maybe better a schematics to share, I think if I give myself a predefined workflow it's better. Some questions at this stage: the non-push/push POT I have it's a 550k when the ones installed are 500K but I think that should be fine? are there any better wiring solutions that could give a more interesting tone, like for example series/parallel? buying another push-push POT for the Neck Volume, could I achieve some extra layout to switch in to? thank you All PS I made myself the cardbaord template
  17. very interesting did Heritage build guitars for Gretsch too? that floating PU on the Heritage D'Angelico New Yorker is lovely
  18. Nice picture, good to know you're playing and, great looking GT 🙂
  19. lovely guitars guys&gals thanks for sharing your beauties how lucky are we
  20. yes DB, it was the wider they could have made at the time (so I've been told) the neck profile is a sort of D (never measured honestly) and it's more similar to the standard Martin D-35 neck profile
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