Jump to content
Heritage Owners Club

Kuz

Members
  • Content Count

    10,320
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    92

Kuz last won the day on May 28

Kuz had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

288 Excellent

About Kuz

  • Rank
    Has Skewed Priorities
  • Birthday 09/29/1966

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    Family, Faith, Music, Guitars, Cycling, Photography, Golf

Recent Profile Visitors

3,125 profile views
  1. If your Throbaks are SLE-101s they are A2s unless you special ordered other wise. The SLE-101 Plus are A5s.
  2. That's it. I knew there was two different voicings of some kind. Enjoy!
  3. I remember the hype when those came out. A slightly hotter version of the original and reviewers said they sounded great. Isn't there a pull knob on the volume to make it a "hotter" and then push in for a "normal" (not as in the "normal channel" input, but as in "regular" unaltered '68 Deluxe Reverb channel)?
  4. The honest answer is that Heritage doesn't sand any arch at all and quality of rings aren't very good so they eventually crack. The quality of the pup rings aren't to the same quality as the Gibbons Historic Pup Rings. I have used those on several guitars with minimal sanding (DON'T over sand the arch because when you screw them down tight to the body you might have a see-through opening under the arch, where the ring isn't making contact with the body). My Collings City Limits and McInturff Carolina Custom both had the rings "massaged/slightly sanded" for a perfect fit and the rings feel more substantial/thicker. Finally, and they are expensive, but Jon at Throbak re cloned the exact material composition of the Gibbons '50s pup rings and they are guaranteed not to break.
  5. .900" at 1st and 1.00" at the 12th is pretty much what Gibbons uses for their R9 (1959 LP) neck shape. SO I guess I wouldn't consider that neck to be baseball bat '52-'56 neck shape.
  6. If you get an offer anywhere near $850-950... TAKE IT in heartbeat!
  7. From the Collings website... FOR ME, this is the most comfy, naturally feeling neck shape. All of our Collings electric models have a 1 11/16" nut width and a classic medium depth C-shape neck profile. The depth from the back of the neck to the top of the fingerboard (not including the fret) is typically as follows: 1st fret: 0.860" 9th fret: 0.960" 12th fret: 1.010" As for acoustics, again for me, Collings has nailed the shape. I am blessed with 3 Collings. Two have the NON-VINTAGE neck shape (see below) and the other is an OM Traditional with what they call VINTAGE-NOW. Both shapes are very comfy, but I wouldn't want to go larger than the VINTAGE-NOW ( they do make even a bigger size neck which they call VINTAGE. But it is TOO big for me. Our standard (non-vintage) neck = .840" at the 1st fret and .930" at the 9th fret. "Vintage Now" = .845" at the 1st fret and .960" at the 9th fret. Vintage neck = .845" at the 1st fret and 1.020" at the 9th fret.
  8. That's my point Paul, that Heritage guitars need an artificial aging agent to look anything like "finish checked". By natural forces, Heritage guitars don't do that.
  9. I do have a highend expensive CP Thornton Improv where the nitro finish has checked all over the top just by sitting in it's case downstairs. The guitar is probably 7-8 years old. This is a FINISHED downstairs and it is slightly colder (maybe 5-7 degrees or so) than the rest of the house, and this guitar has checking all across the top. The rest of my guitars downstairs in their cases look like new (except for the factory "reli'd" ones). So I feel it is the finish that matters. Not just nitro or lacquer, but what type of nitro or lacquer finish. But I agree with you Rich, finish checking is less common with just reasonable care. I think to make a Heritage finish "check", it would have to be intentional exposed to unrealistic conditions for it to occur.
  10. I used to think I needed an early '50s Baseball Bat neck on my guitars. But now I find them uncomfortable and slower to move around on. My ideal neck is a smidgen (yes that is a unit of measure) thinner than a standard '59 neck. Basically, it the PRS DGT or a Collings City Limits neck size. I am cool with wider nut widths (all my acoustics are 1 3/4") but Baseball bat fat "U" shapes, not for me. I talk to a lot of next level guitarists and they tell me that they prefer the neck shape I described as well. So I am not sure if BIG NECKs would be huge sellers or not..... maybe for some. But I believe the majority of real players don't like the '52 LP (or '52 Nocaster) neck and they don't like '80s pointy shredder thin necks. Probably right in the middle-ish. But if I had to choose from Baseball neck to Shedder neck, then it would be begrudgingly the Baseball neck. But again, my pet peeve is nut width. On acoustics they have to be 1 3/4", no 1 11/16" or narrower necks for me. Just my opinion, YMMV
  11. Let's face it, as a son of a BILLIONAIRE, Heritage is not a beloved little Mom & Pop company anymore. Heritage is a target because the owner has a sh!t load of money. I believe that is the main reason they were targeted.... because they are worth the effort to target!
  12. SO..... I have a question. With Heritage suing Gibbons, after Gibbons was leaning on Heritage..... Why don't you ever see any of the acoustic guitar companies suing over body shapes? Collings, Bourgeois, Santa Cruz, and countless other companies make the same shaped Dreadnoughts, OM, OOO, OO, O shaped guitars. Many companies make their own Slope Shoulder Southern Jumbos, J-45, J-35 shaped guitars. And you don't see Martin or Gibbons suing anyone. So why no acoustic guitar law suits?
  13. Try a Collings City Limits or McInturff Carolina Custom. Just try one before commenting to see if they are in the same ballpark as a LP. And everyone has their own personal idea of what the perfect LP sounds like. For me, I like a clear, balance tone, with blooming overtones. So my Collings City Limits and McInturff Carolina Custom does it for me. And those of us that play in a band context, might have a different tonal need from a solo artist/recording artist. It's all good, what ever works for each of us.... works for each of us.
  14. I have owned two GEs and they both were different. My Florentine Cutaway GE has a 1 3/4" nut so the neck is a little thin and flatter D shape. Probably very close to SkyDog's measurements. The other one I owned had a slightly bigger neck. But since the guitars made prior to 2016 were more handmade, the measurements will all vary.
  15. Wouldn't brass be significantly heavier than Aluminium or Titanium? Brass Tele saddles are much more "rounder", "softer", with less highend, and not as loud as steel Tele saddles. I have two Teles with steel saddles, one Tele with brass, and one Tele Custom with individual Titanium saddles (like on a Strat). And you are right Daniel, you don't know what each guitar will like until you try it. For me, I try to duplicate what the original vintage guitars came with so; my Blackguard maple neck Tele has brass, my '60s RI Rosewood fretboard Teles have steel, and the Custom (with humbuckers) just "opened up" with Titanium saddles.
×
×
  • Create New...