cobo

Tried to remove some duplicate images using the edit feature. That apparently doesn't work ...

Thought I would also post the wiring diagram(s) in case there is more interest. I have two different ways that I use my pedal board: 1. When I'm just playing around to a backing track or whatever, I like to have the delay and reverb effects in the signal chain after the Srymon Iridium amp simulator. This setup allows me to pipe nice-sounding Iridium-amp-simulated signals with Delay and Reverb post-amp into my laptop, and play along with headphones. This setup has a very high WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) due to the silence in the house. Ignoring the mono compressor and overdrive pedals that are in front of the Deco, the signal routing for that setup looks like this: 2. When I'm recording (a rare event), I like to move the Iridium further back in the signal chain so I can record both the real amps and the Iridium at the same time with the same effects in the chain, and then mix the different amp sounds to my liking afterward. That setup has a very low-scoring WAF (which is why it's a rare event) due to the house-filling sound it generates. The signal chain for that setup looks like this: I'm too cheap to spend the big $$$ on a Boss switcher, so I end up unplugging cables and patching some new ones in to switch back-and-forth between the two setups.

Thanks!

Thanks! The guitar signal goes from mono to stereo after the Strymon Deco, so the wiring gets doubled up after that. The orange boxes underneath are (Lehle P-Split) signal splitters/isolators that allow me to route the Left and Right stereo signals to my (stereo) amps as well as the (now-isolated) Strymon Iridium amp simulator that feeds to my recording interface. I needed the signals going to be my recording interface to be galvanically (transformer) isolated to eliminate the ground-loop hum I otherwise get when I try to feed my amps and the recording interface at the same time. The Lehle P-Splits are very cool (and small 👍🏻) splitter boxes (built like tanks - made in Germany) that have transformer isolation.

Thank you! As a fellow sufferer, I can confide in you that I was up all night fretting (see what I did there?) about the pre-made Strymon power cables that I couldn’t cut to a custom length like the instrument signal cables ... 🙀

Got it done - and everything works! 😎

Got the parts, Got the day off tomorrow, Got no more excuses ... Any bets how many connectors I solder in place without first sliding the screw-on cap onto the cable? 😎

Yes indeed, shrink tubing is also good to use. When I ended up converting the wiring to '50's style (after the video was made), I installed some shrink tubing over the cables to help ensure they don't touch anything they shouldn't.

Brent ROCKS!! 😎

I'm no expert, but I've used this technique 4 or 5 times now in various guitars, and it works well enough that I have no reservations about removing pickups from a semi-hollow or fully-hollow guitar. I made this video after purchasing a Gibbons ES-390 that hummed more than any guitar I've ever owned, and I've owned and built a few P90 guitars, so it's not like it was my first rodeo with those pickups. Thought I would pass it along to you guys. YMMV. Happy to answer any questions. How I replace pickups/harness in a semi-hollow guitar: https://youtu.be/yJgBYFvP9fk Original Gibbons ES-390 wiring harness: https://youtu.be/95S_XZt-n_w

I’ve become reasonably adept at swapping pickups and making whole new harnesses for hollow body guitars. As others have mentioned, you do need to be patient, but it’s not that hard. The key I found is to use 1/4” clear tubing (like an aquarium air line) to help coax the pots back into their holes. But a foot of it at Home Depot in the plumbing department. Just insert the tubing through the hole where the pot wants to go, pull the tubing up through the F-hole, connect the tubing to the pot’s knurled-knob mount, carefully put the pot in the body cavity without stressing the solder joints, and gently pull the tubing out through the hole in which you inserted it. Voila! The pot pops right up into the proper hole! 😎 The other kinda tricky one is the output jack. I use a 12” piece of 20 gauge solid-core wire. I put the wire through the body hole where the jack goes, pull the wire out through the F-hole, push it through the output jack’s female connector hole, bend the wire ~90° to “latch” onto the solder lugs, the gently pull the whole thing back through the body hole and the output jack will appear. Put the washer and nut on it, then pull hard on the 20 gauge this wire and it will let loose of the solder lugs.