TalismanRich
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Posts posted by TalismanRich
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The only thing that I've changed on my Heritages are a couple of sets of pickups. The originals in my H-140 were bad, so I put in Alnico Pro IIs. I put some Sheptones in my 535. It changed the sound in both. The 525, Mille and 157 all have the stock pups. The bridge and tailpieces are all stock.
I tried changing the saddles on my G&L Legacy hoping to get a little more of that "twang" but it really didn't change enough for me to even notice. I've changed a few pots and tried changing the tone caps. The pots were because of a bit of scratchiness. I don't know that the cap change did anything.
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SWEET!!!
I've always thought the Mille was one of Heritage's best guitars.
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On 9/3/2024 at 12:45 PM, skydog52 said:
I would love to find a 2001 Limited Editon model.
I've got #22 of the 2000 Limited Edition. Alas... it's not for sale.
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I always thought the spray booth was a fire waiting to happen. The new booth pretty much guarantees that you won't be getting stray dust or bug on your freshly sprayed nitro.
I don't know that they felt the retail shops should be doing fretwork, but I think they tried to set things up to a rough "standard" and if the buyer wanted the action adjusted, the shops were supposed to do it. But some of the nut slotting could have been better years ago.
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Hey, I think I just found my retirement career! $500 for a wooden pickguard is INSANE! I won't charge more than $250. 😁
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I'm guessing that in the past, they would have done pretty much anything that Jay asked them to do. I think the standard pickguards were maple. Mars_Hall had this photo from 2009. It was labeled "Maple Pickguards".
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10 hours ago, Spectrum13 said:
That was Steiner (Gregg)
Thanks. That's been so long that I couldn't remember.
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Nah, Bolero, it wasn't humidity. I've got a humidifier for the winter that drinks about 3-4 gallons of water a day in the depths of winter. The crack right by the screw below the neck, cause when I inadvertently pressed down on the pickguard quite some time back. The metal arm gave way slightly, but the part by the screw didn't move. I heard it crack. It's barely visible, doesn't compromise anything.
I consider this an "adding to the skill set" adventure. A lot of people have asked for wooden pickguards over the years. I'm surprised that nobody has ever said "yeah, I can make them". Wasn't it Big Bob who made those 3D looking cutting boards (anybody remember those?) Surely he could have made something this simple!
In the end, it will probably end up looking like a 5th grader's art project. We'll see. Rockabilly did the plexi pickguard for his Rick and it looked great. This should be an easier job than that.
Now can anybody figure how how to ship a package from China for nothing? The binding, envelope, time and shipping around the world for a whopping $8.
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I have a small crack in the wooden pickguard of my H-157 (the one in the PSP video. It's not a big issue, but I wondered how hard it would be to make another one. I'm not a woodworker, but I've got a few tools.
I picked up a piece of 4" x 24" x 1/8" basswood from Hobby Lobby. It was $4. I can get some Minwax black stain, and I think they have Minwax 15200 nitro lacquer at Lowes in a spray can. I can use the original guard as a pattern. All I need is the binding.
Checking on Amazon, MusicLilly has white plastic binding that will work. $8 with free shipping. It showed up today, so I'll run by Lowes and get the Mixwax. I've also got a can of Rustoleum acrylic enamel. The piece of basswood is about 24 inches, so I should be able to make a couple of pickguards, and have some scrap to try my hand at staining and binding.
One thing that surprised me with the binding is "how do they make any money?" It's $8. I looked at the Tracking and it was shipped from Guandong China to Hong Kong on Tuesday. It arrived in Miami Fla on Wednesday and passed through Customs. From there it went to Georgia and was handed off to USPS. It delivered today. The amazing part is that I shipped some cassettes to a fellow in Oregon a few weeks ago, and shipping alone was $10 via USPS. This thing came all the way from China for $2 less. AND they even threw in a free guitar pick.
Anyway, I'm going to give this thing a shot in the next week or two. I'll need to learn how to do the binding, but I've got 5 ft of binding to play with.
Oh yeah, at PSP, someone said that the trick to fixing the crack is to thin down some Titebond, work it into the crack and let it harden. I'll probably try to do that as well.
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That sucks about needing the surgery, but good news that they got all the cancer.
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IF you watched the video I posted earlier, you can see how Heritage did the fretboards.
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No cyano... I'm 99% sure the plastic is acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), the same as the binding itself. It's the same plastic as used for things like Legos. It's totally soluble in acetone. They dissolve the plastic in the solvent and it becomes an excellent adhesive.
Cyanoacrylates can be tricky to work with since they cure almost immediately, and are difficult to clean up if there's any problem. Shelf life is short. It's great for quick touchups where you only need to adhere a small area. For doing bindings for hours at a time, the ABS/Acetone is much better to work with.
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There was a change some years later where they added the rounded cutaway to make it more 150 like. That would have been around 2010-11. It was called the H-140 2nd Edition.
They had two H-140 versions listed. You can see the difference here.
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There's a distinct difference between 140 and 150. The biggest difference is the cutaway. On the 140, it's a sharp pointed Florentine cutatway. There's usually no binding on the neck and it should be 1 1/2 inches thick vs the H-150 at 2". The body is also about 1/2 inch smaller in width and height vs the 150. The 150 Special would have the same size body as a regular 150 but 1 3/4" thick. It would also have the rounded Venetian cutaway of the normal 150.
So...no, it's not just a renamed H-140. It's a standard H-150 body with all the trimmings of the standard 150 but 1/4" thinner.
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Wow, an 11 lb H140!!?? Mine is a puny 8.06 lbs.
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One reason might be cost. Gibby is currently selling the LP Jr for $1600. That's even gone up over the past few years. I think it was around $1300 4 or 5 years ago. Wasn't the H-137 more like $2000 a few years ago? It's a hard sell to be 25% higher priced, even if it was hand built.
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I don't have a "need" for the nibs, except that they do make the edges of the frets much less dangerous. The perfectly rounded edges of the frets of my Melancon T are great. If I was to have one of my Heritages refretted, it would probably be with nibless stainless steel frets.
However, at my age, I doubt I'll ever wear out the frets of the guitars I have.
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I wish I had woodworking skills. It's probably something that could be done pretty easily if you know what you're doing. The binding might be the hardest part to learn.
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My H140 is unbound, so no nibs on the fret ends. My 157, 535 and Millennium all have nibs although the 535's binding appears to be thinner than the 157 and Millennium, so the nibs aren't as apparent. The Millennium is a 2000, my 157 is 2003 and the 535 is a 2005.
I think pretty much all Heritages with bound fretboards have the nibs on the fret ends. They have a device that cuts the binding down after it has been put on the sides.
Here's a video of them doing fretboards and binding nibs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjz0tX9q5t8
The binding should not be inside the actual fretboard. The frets should be right to the edge of the wood, then the binding is applied later.
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I did run across a schematic for the 120R. https://elektrotanya.com/premier_120r_sch.pdf/download.html
That might give you a bit better idea of how the reverb and trem are wired.
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I'll make you a deal. Meet me in K'zoo on the 1st, and I'll share MORE than 3oz with you!
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Its good to hear about someone else who has discovered the 1/2 round or groundwound strings. I agree with you. You get most of the roundwound sound, with a smooth feel.
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This is what the locking Grovers look like on my 535. I like the keystones more than the kidney beans. They are the same weight as the originals, 9.6 oz for the set.
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For me, the one guitar that I think this might be useful on would be my H-157. That guitar is 9 1/2 lbs, so on the heavy side. But any change would need to be gold/locking/keystone button replacements. I really like the way the Grover Keystone tuners look on my H535.
I don't know if 3oz would make that much difference, I would probably get more reduction swapping out the Schaller bridge and tailpiece for lighter parts.
too many wah's?
in Amplification and Effects
Posted
I had an original Vox wah back in the early 70s which somehow disappeared after a gig. I bought a CryBaby, which was essentially the same at the time. It's also disappeared over the years.
About 20 years ago, I got a Vox 847 and it's still on my pedalboard.
I've had more chorus type pedals than wahs. I wish I could find a really good Leslie simulator. I've the a Lester, MiniDeja Vibe2, H2O chorus, and played with a few others. The Lester was a disappointment. I've listened to a few others, and they just don't sound like the real thing to me.