peerless Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Hi, All...I have a Heritage 140 2nd edition with the standard Heritage rollernut bridge and tail piece. I want to install: 1. Tone pros locking system for the tailpiece and (??) the bridge. 2. Aluminum stop tailpiece. 3. ABR-1 vintage style bridge. So far I plan to get the following from AllParts: TP_3406-001 Gotah Aluminum Featherweight Stop TP TP_0456-S01 Tone Pros® SNS/NKL Steel locking studs So I plan to use the Gotah tail piece with the TP locking studs to achieve part of goal 1 and goal 2. I am not sure what bridge part will fit my studs or if I need to change the studs? I have never changed out the studs on my guitar before. Do they simply screw out then back in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitArtMan Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 An ABR-1 style bridge wont work without some modification to either the bridge or the guitar - you need a Nashville style bridge. The mounting posts on the ABR-1 have a smaller diameter than the Nashville mounting posts, so you either have to drill out the ABR-1 bridge to fit the Nashville style posts or you have to replace the Nasville syle posts with ABR-1 posts. The challenge there is that the ABR-1 posts thread directly into the body of the guitar, the Nashville posts go into a threaded bushing that is pushed into the body of the guitar. So you either have to pull the bushings out, plug the body and then re-drill for the ABR-1 posts, or you have to find (make?) a post that fits the Nashville style bushing yet is narrower on top for the ABR-1 bridge. Like I said, you need a Nashville style bridge. It will drop right in and you can use the existing mounting posts or the ones that come with the bridge and be up and rockin' in just a few minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mars_hall Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 This may or may not help you. http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/custom-sho...convertion.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnH555 Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Hi Peerless. What I did with my bridge was drill, tap, and install stainless allan screws in it to make it locking. Got everything I needed at Ace. If you can't get the parts you want as locking units you might consider this option. Welcome to the HOC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectrum13 Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 Faber makes a ABR 1 bridge that fits your studs available from CVguitars. You might want to check the site for their locking tailpiece as an alternative to the tone pros. Then you could do the locking mod AnH555 suggests. Remember to NOT get metrix threads. After replacing the zink with aluminum you may find you loose some grit. Enjoy your toy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shook494 Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 Hey peerless. I just replaced my Schaller stuff on my 150 with Tonepros. It was as easy as unscrewing the old studs and screwing in the new ones. I didn't have anything weird come up. It works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peerless Posted October 1, 2008 Author Share Posted October 1, 2008 Thanks for all the responses. Very helpful indeed. It seems like drilling out the ABR-1 may be the way to go. Either that or I will just stick with my roller bridge and only change the TP out for now. I am looking for enhancing the tone and not aesthetics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulk1 Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Call me slow or whatever. But whats the big dif between an ABR and a Nashville bridge? I wouldn't know one from the other. The Schaller! That I can recognize easily enough. School me on the other two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectrum13 Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Nashville has more range for saddle travel with different anchor system into the body and into the bridge. It's wider too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peerless Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 I found a site that sells Studs for replacing or modifying the Nashville studs so that an ABR will fit. Brown's Guitar Factory http://www.brownsguitarfactory.com/ Goto accessories and see option #6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slider313 Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Maybe I'm missing something here....why not just get a Nashville bridge? There's no "magic" in an ABR1. The Nashville is a drop in replacement and TonePros make a locking version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectrum13 Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Yea I don't see any benefit to go to an ABR1 when the guitar was made for a Nashville unless you have clearance issues with the strings v tailpiece angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
es125luv Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 I agree with the last two posts. Just get the Nashville style TonePros. Do not get the "metric" or "large post" bridge. Those are for oversees built guitars like Epiphone, etc. For some reason, WD Music does not have the TP6 listed (but I know they are currently revamping their website). Allparts has them: The Nashville model for the bridge is TP6. http://www.allparts.com/store/gb0543-010,Product.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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