MartyGrass Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 I've noticed that quite a few guitars have the stop tailpieces screwed in deeply. The strings hit the side of the TOMs. When I raise the tailpieces the post rings are above the tops and you can see down the holes. That doesn't look right. What is the proper setting for a stop tailpiece and why does it matter? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smurph1 Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 There are many varying opinions on that subject..Some people tighten them down, claiming it gives more sustain.. Others like the fact that the tailpiece doesn't fall off during string changes..I leave mine loose because I think over time, the down-pressure can "cave in" the TOM bridge..One mans opinion, and as always YMMV... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Hi Mark, there's been discussion on this before. Look on the forum (and elsewhere on the web) for 'break angle' for lots of opinions. Personally, I don't like the strings to touch the bridge before the saddles and I adjust the tailpiece for that. Reasons: unwanted lateral pressure on the bridge and potential for string breakage at the pressure point. I'm sure there'll be other points of view on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitArtMan Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 This is one of those hotly debated topics. Some people like 'em screwed all the way down tight. Some people like 'em almost parallel with the top of the bridge. Some people like 'em a happy medium. Some people top wrap the tail piece ala Duane Alman, Billy Gibbons and others. Dan Erelewine recommends setting the tail piece height so that the strings just clear the back of the bridge, but don't touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredZepp Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Dan Erelewine recommends setting the tail piece height so that the strings just clear the back of the bridge, but don't touch. This pretty much makes sense to me. I remember setting the one on my LP Custom higher to relieve the break angle some, when I was young and breaking too many strings. It's hard to say what really was the problem there, but it's not an issue anymore...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzrat Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 This is what I like to do. Screw the tailpiece down tight and top wrap the strings. Great sustain and a shallower break angle for a nice soft feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Dr. Goetting . . . . this is why God created competent guitar techs. How would you council one of your patients on going to a guitar tech for a neurological or sleep disorder? I could just hear the tech's recommendation to them;; . . . "try tuning your brain down a half step and just go to sleep". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 This is what I like to do. Screw the tailpiece down tight and top wrap the strings. Great sustain and a shallower break angle for a nice soft feel. That's a great looking guitar man. What is it? At first glance, the color and the vintage Gibson looking pick guard led me to think it was a Gibson Larry Carlton "Mr. 335" model. Then I noticed the dot inlays on the board . . . so it's not Mr. 335. The top has no flame what so ever, so, I don't think it's a 535. What is it. I like it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 That's a great looking guitar man. What is it? At first glance, the color and the vintage Gibson looking pick guard led me to think it was a Gibson Larry Carlton "Mr. 335" model. Then I noticed the dot inlays on the board . . . so it's not Mr. 335. The top has no flame what so ever, so, I don't think it's a 535. What is it. I like it!! I just looked again and saw the oval orange label inside the F hole. It looks like a great color dot neck reissue. Would it be too much trouble for you to post some full length pictures of it? I'd love to see more of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
602a Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I'm I looking wrong or is that bridge on backwards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mgoetting Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Dr. Goetting . . . . this is why God created competent guitar techs. How would you council one of your patients on going to a guitar tech for a neurological or sleep disorder? I could just hear the tech's recommendation to them;; . . . "try tuning your brain down a half step and just go to sleep". I like to do some stuff myself. By logical extension I wouldn't play the guitar. I'd have EVH do that for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I'm I looking wrong or is that bridge on backwards? They work either way round - you just have to ensure the saddles are in the right place (i.e., the notch for the low E is wider than for the high E). I put them on with the saddle screws pickup side too, easier to drop the pickup a little for access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
602a Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Is that the standard tail piece or a wrap around model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Is that the standard tail piece or a wrap around model? Looks standard to me. Thinking of trying the wrapover look? Some say that it makes string bends easier because of the extra 'slack' behind the bridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111518 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Not to jump too deeply into a subject we've had a number of threads about, including some interesting explanations about the physics, including the impact on tuning stability of top-wrapping, by former contributors (remember Pacer X? Always enjoyed his contributions.) but there is a third alternative --various systems that allow you to raise the tailpiece off the top so that strings clear the bridge, but also firmly anchor the tailpiece to the post and/or top so that the hardware system is as rigid as possible. The tonepro system does this with set screws, but there are also more elaborate systems out there ...such as the Faber Tonelock system. Me ... I keep my tailpieces set so the strings clear the back of the bridge, so that my string length(tuning stability) and break angle (tension) are not increased as would be the case with top wrapping or cranking the tp to the top. If I feel the need for more sustain, I move closer to my amp and allow sympathetic vibration to more than replace any energy I might be losing through slack in the tailpiece system. Though I recognize the physics that argue some advantage to systems like the Faber, I find that the extra money in my wallet from not buying new hardware has a positive effect on my mind/spirit harmonic balance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoNameBand Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I've learned from other styles of bridges (ie fender, trapeze and so on), that having the string height on the tail piece relieves the down force pressure necessary in playing the guitar. It also relieves the tension over the bridge and helping to eliminate string breakage. The best solution to accommodate a "higher" stop tailpiece setting is to switch to TonePros locking stop bar and raise the tailpiece to about the mid point or enough to clear the backside of the bridge. This will improve sustain even though the tailpiece is higher. Also, the TonePro studs fit tighter. You can experiment with this to see if it doesn't lesson the necessary pressure to depress the strings. Guitars with trapeze tailpieces play easier as well as Fender guitars and if you notice, the string height from tailpiece (or where the strings come through the end of the tailpiece), is closer to the height of the bridge. Only the Gibson/Heritage style stop bar/Nashville bridge have such a steep graduation in height. All other systems are less steep and typically, non-adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectrum13 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I'm I looking wrong or is that bridge on backwards? You are not wrong BUT That is an ABR-1 bridge not Nashville. The screwheads are larger than on a Nashville and face foward to avoid strings hitting the screws as they exit the saddle as they travel to the tailpiece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I like to do some stuff myself. By logical extension I wouldn't play the guitar. I'd have EVH do that for me. No sir!! That's an illogical extension. Unless one would see it a logical to have a sleep order specialist . . . sleep for them when they experienced difficulties? What the hell is an EVH? Ya see, that's just the kind of a guy I am. I disagree with people even when I don't know what the hell they're talking about. I gotta tell ya man . . . sometimes, it's tough being me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I'm I looking wrong or is that bridge on backwards? The ABR1 bridge on that 335 looks correct to me. If you look closely, you can see the wire that holds the saddles in place during string changes is in the correct orientation. Oh, just in case I forgot to mention it . . . I really like that 335!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoNameBand Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 No sir!! That's an illogical extension. Unless one would see it a logical to have a sleep order specialist . . . sleep for them when they experienced difficulties? What the hell is an EVH? Ya see, that's just the kind of a guy I am. I disagree with people even when I don't know what the hell they're talking about. I gotta tell ya man . . . sometimes, it's tough being me!! It's not easy being Green... Who said that Patrick? You are in good company. You crack me up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
602a Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Wished this topic was posted a few days ago, I ordered a Tone Pro Aluminum Wrap around Vintage model. Oh well live and learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Wished this topic was posted a few days ago, I ordered a Tone Pro Aluminum Wrap around Vintage model. Oh well live and learn. What are you putting it on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoNameBand Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Wished this topic was posted a few days ago, I ordered a Tone Pro Aluminum Wrap around Vintage model. Oh well live and learn. Thats a great tailpiece. I have one on my '56 Les Paul gold top reissue w/p-90s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Thats a great tailpiece. I have one on my '56 Les Paul gold top reissue w/p-90s. Hey Mark . . . I didn't know that you have an R6. Does it have a TOM bridge? Or just the wrap around TP? What year is it? Got any pics you can post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 It's not easy being Green... Who said that Patrick? You are in good company. You crack me up! I believe that was Kermit the Frog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.