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Heritage Owners Club

What do I get next?


conorb

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Well, I've got my h150 (from Julian) and it's amazing. Killer tone, killer looks and killer playability.

 

I'm thinking about starting to look for another Heritage and I'm not quite sure what direction to go. I could entertain moving to a semi-hollow body for a more Jazzy kind of tone - I play mostly blues and definitely see myself with that style of guitar in the future.

 

I recently played both a Prospect and a 535 and I really liked the Prospect with its slightly smaller body (makes up for my slightly bigger body I guess) but I would like something with full inlays and neck/headstock binding. I guess I could try and look for a 555 but I'm not a big fan of gold hardware; picky I know.

 

Another guitar that is really eye-catching is the newer H110, but it doesn't seem to be getting much love, perhaps it's the newness of it.

 

Also, another 150 or a 157 would be kinda cool. Maybe a black 157 with silver hardware. That's got to exist somewhere.

 

Additionally if someone could explain the relative differences between the semi-hollow body and hollow body guitars as defined by Heritage that would be really cool. Construction, size, tone, etc. From looking at their website it appears as though the hollow bodies are larger bodied guitars with a different bridge configuration/setup. More along the lines of an full Jazz archtop perhaps?

 

Thoughts from the collective would be appreciated.

 

conorb

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A Prospect with full inlays, neck/head binding? Huh .... like this?

 

custom-prospect-fullfront.jpgcustom-prospect-fullback.jpg

 

prospect-csutom-body3.jpg

 

Best guitar I own. :o

It's Purdy too.. :o

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Is that a custom order/build?

 

Details please. Pretty please. :o

 

conorb

 

Yes, custom order. Thing is, it wasn't any more expensive than I've seen for stock Prospects. Well, maybe a buck or two, but certainly as reasonable.

 

Prospect

Dark Almond Burst/w a bit 'o wine

Trap Inlays

MoP Headstock Inlay

Creme` binding neck/headstock

Dark/Dark Rosewood Finger Board (specified)

Matching Finger Rest

Tone Pros Hardware

PhatCat pickups

Creme` Tuner Buttons (Ren's suggestion)

Case (of course)

Extra Mojo and Talent

 

Can't remember if anything else was custom. They did a different wiring on the pups. Very interactive. I should have asked them to inlay around the forward strap button. And perhaps a non-floating center block.

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Conorb, if you can find one you may want to try a Millie DC. Smaller double cut semi hollow, just a tad bigger than a H-150. I picked one up and just love it.

 

 

Tulk........I want that guitar!!!!!

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Conorb, if you can find one you may want to try a Millie DC. Smaller double cut semi hollow, just a tad bigger than a H-150. I picked one up and just love it.

 

 

Tulk........I want that guitar!!!!!

CJ, I know some guys that can make you one just like it! (shhhhhhh!)

 

As for Millie DCs .............. they're nice, too. :o

 

2008Millie_kle.jpg

 

millie2008-fullfront1.jpg

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CJ, I know some guys that can make you one just like it! (shhhhhhh!)

 

As for Millie DCs .............. they're nice, too. :o

 

2008Millie_kle.jpg

 

millie2008-fullfront1.jpg

 

 

Maybe someday I'll get a custom order Heritage. (looking away in a dreamlike state.. :o )

 

Nice Millie, I really like the darker burst with the flame top.......

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CJ, I know some guys that can make you one just like it! (shhhhhhh!)

 

As for Millie DCs .............. they're nice, too. :unsure:

 

2008Millie_kle.jpg

 

millie2008-fullfront1.jpg

 

Another custom??? No "f" holes, and....?

 

Wonderful looking guitar, I bet it plays nice as well. ^_^

 

Any thoughts of how something like this would compare to a 110?

 

conorb

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I loves me some Millie DC . . . however I'm wondering for my next to get the h150 with a dc cut w/ seths . . . or a h150 with slash pickups . . . or a 150 with p90's . . .

 

having choices is a good thing

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To answer your questions, I hollow body is a guitar with exactly that, a hollow body. These are prone to feedback at higher volume so you would need an amp with lots of headroom.

 

Semi Hollow or semi solid, some say semi acoustic, means the guitar has a solid block of wood running through the body which counter acts against the feedback. Examples being the 535 and 555.

 

I think the 535 and 555 fantastic for what you say you need, loads of tone. I also do not like gold hardware, although many do, for me it is just a preference and I have all the hardware on my 555 replaced with nickel. I did this when I had the schaller pickups and hardware replaced. Here's a picture.

post-1193-1270021991_thumb.jpg

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If you are looking for a more "woody" sound there are a lot of options, depending on how much you want. The H110 and H150LW are probably the least hollow sounding. The millennium series are are made with routed out body edges, kind of like a Gibson CS336, and are available in single and double cut versions. Then you get to the 535 and the prospect, which similar but the prospect is smaller, and has a floating center block, unlike the solid center that the 535 has.

 

of course after this you can go into the big jazz box area, but I don't ever find myself that far afield.

 

I have an H150CM and a H-535, and I love them both. I think the 535 is as hollow as I'll go on an electric. other stuff is just too boomy and feeds back.

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love that solid top...wonder how it compares w/mine (f-holes)...are those HRWs?

It reacts more like an H150LW. It still retains some of the characteristics of the semis simply because of the semi-solid construction. I can really feel the top/bottom moving, it is a bit woodier sounding than the H157 I had. But overall it feels more like a chambered guitar than what a Millie should probably feel like. It's nothing at all like the Millie SAE I had a year ago. The pics are with HRWs, which I found to be a bit bright for this guitar. I have since jumped on the Tom Short bandwagon with a low wound neck, a custom wound bridge. Tames a bit of the higher end. BTW, this one is a Mahogany back, Maple rims and top. Both of my customs were ordered with Marv's 50's neck carve. That is all I said in the specs, and Marv nailed it; or whomever he's taught to do them, now. Just an excellent feel in the hand.

 

Don't mean to completely hi-jack this thread with my own custom orders. My point being that if one is looking for a specific guitar, sound, etc., it's hard to beat going custom with Heritage. Unless the order is just WAY of stock specs, the customization upcharges are nominal for HOC members. <<---That is key right there. :unsure:

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Still one of my all time fav's on this board.

 

 

The traps are other than standard on the millie too, I just noticed these. They usually come w/blocks.

 

I second the notion of the poster above about the nickel hardware, my choice too if custom ordered.

 

My Millie H155 has blocks, triple binding (all normal on the millie), but HRWs and SILVER hardware against a trans red body...

mmmm mmmmm mmmmm.

 

That said, don't mind the gold hdware on my DC either w/the Old Style burst combo... :unsure:

 

My H155 (with no f-holes) would be the equivilant of tulks DC (with no f-holes) excepting color, pickups, MOP inlays, hardware color.

 

My Millie DC has the f-holes.

 

I absolutely LOVE the tone and playability of them, esp. the H155.

 

When I replace the nut in the DC, then I'll be happier w/it's playability than I already am!

post-179-1270059609_thumb.jpg

post-179-1270059681_thumb.jpg

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I would like something with full inlays and neck/headstock binding.

 

conorb

 

I'll throw my opinion in on this one.

 

I had a 555 and 157 that had binding and fretboard inlays. Sure, they looked pretty, but binding and inlays really do nothing positive for the playability or feel of a guitar.

 

Had issues with binding on a custom 575 - well documented here. No point going over it again.

 

My biggest peeve is with the fret nibs that the Gibson/Heritage method leaves. Maybe I'm too sloppy, but I was fighting with those damn fret nibs every time I played those guitars. The only thing that the binding serves to do, is decrease your fret length 1/8 inch on each side. Main reason I sold them actually. If the frets extended over the binding, I'd be ok with it. Still, doesn't make a lot of sense to remove a strip of perfectly fine wood and replace it with a plastic strip.

 

Inlays - guitars should be made of wood - not sea shells! :unsure: I like nothing more than simple dots. Bigs blocky inlays also just feel weird.

 

I guess I just like simple, no frills, utilitarian.

 

Just my opinion, i could be wrong!

 

Rant over. ^_^

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To answer your questions, I hollow body is a guitar with exactly that, a hollow body. These are prone to feedback at higher volume so you would need an amp with lots of headroom.

 

Semi Hollow or semi solid, some say semi acoustic, means the guitar has a solid block of wood running through the body which counter acts against the feedback. Examples being the 535 and 555.

 

I think the 535 and 555 fantastic for what you say you need, loads of tone. I also do not like gold hardware, although many do, for me it is just a preference and I have all the hardware on my 555 replaced with nickel. I did this when I had the schaller pickups and hardware replaced. Here's a picture.

 

Thanks, that's very useful information. A line of delineation I hadn't really internalized before.

 

Conorb, if you can find one you may want to try a Millie DC. Smaller double cut semi hollow, just a tad bigger than a H-150. I picked one up and just love it.

 

That's a good idea. I'm liking the double-cut.

 

I'll throw my opinion in on this one.

 

I had a 555 and 157 that had binding and fretboard inlays. Sure, they looked pretty, but binding and inlays really do nothing positive for the playability or feel of a guitar.

 

Had issues with binding on a custom 575 - well documented here. No point going over it again.

 

My biggest peeve is with the fret nibs that the Gibson/Heritage method leaves. Maybe I'm too sloppy, but I was fighting with those damn fret nibs every time I played those guitars. The only thing that the binding serves to do, is decrease your fret length 1/8 inch on each side. Main reason I sold them actually. If the frets extended over the binding, I'd be ok with it. Still, doesn't make a lot of sense to remove a strip of perfectly fine wood and replace it with a plastic strip.

 

Inlays - guitars should be made of wood - not sea shells! :D I like nothing more than simple dots. Bigs blocky inlays also just feel weird.

 

I guess I just like simple, no frills, utilitarian.

 

Just my opinion, i could be wrong!

 

Rant over. :)

 

I don't doubt that you're wrong - it's your opinion and you're entitled to it. I appreciate your input.

 

Personally I like the aesthetics of the of the inlays and the binding and I have several guitars with plain/regular dots. :D

 

I'm also eyeing a Millennium H155 on ebay; http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=170465777666 - it has gold hardware but it does look stunning.

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

conorb

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...

 

I'm also eyeing a Millennium H155 on ebay; http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=170465777666 - it has gold hardware but it does look stunning.

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

conorb

 

looks beautiful. wonder which model of Seymours are in it (probably Seths Lovers?). pickguard looks like aftermarket Gibsony thing that Wolfe (& others?) added. so, maybe it came from Wolfe. imho well worth the opening bid price...

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