Jazzerous Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I got this 150 LW on the bay 2 weeks ago. It was listed in the Ebay FS section on this forum! This is my first 150 and I noticed it had a whait corian like nut . I have had a 575, and a 535 in the past and put Vintage Camel Bone nuts in those guitars more for looks than anything else . My regular Luthier is on vacation for 10 days so I am taking the suoer nice 150 with Motor City pups to a new guy that is a certified Luthier from a local school and builds his own Electris guits more strat and Hamer style. Am I crazy to be putting a bone nut in for $ 60 in labor to include a re string or A Ok ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkKitty Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Damn. That's nice. I like LW's. As for the nut, I wouldn't fix it if it isn't broken. Nuts are tough to carve properly. If this one works fine, I'd leave it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genericmusic Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Damn. That's nice. I like LW's. As for the nut, I wouldn't fix it if it isn't broken. Nuts are tough to carve properly. If this one works fine, I'd leave it. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpuma Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 just for curiosity, do you also have the HRW pick ups that were originally installed in the guitar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schundog Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Beautiful guitar, but what's with that serial #?! Normally, they all say "Made in Kalamazoo, MI, USA, also with a letter denoting the year of manufacture. This is odd....Plus, what's the little dealy-ma-bob over the serial #? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazzerous Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 I think the thing above the serial # is LW . I bought the guitar on Ebay from a HOC member "Tallershadows" and he has a great rep on ebay as well as here so I totally did not suspect anything about the serial # , and I assumed the funny serial # was that it was a LW . I will certainly call Heritage tomorrow and check it out ! Dang maybe I was blinded by the looks and I still don't suspect anything. The guitar plays great and is set really low . My Luthier was amazed how low and no buzzing on the frets! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golferwave Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I would say it's the letter of the serial number designating the year. I've seen many of the 2007 model year guitars with the "X" above the rest of the numbers. Take the plastic cavity cover off of the back of the guitar and the model and serial number should be on a tag on the backside of the cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golferwave Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 That's an exceptional looking H-150! VSB is a classy looking finish. A bone nut is a matter of preference. I have one installed on all of my guitars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HRB853370 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I think the thing above the serial # is LW . I bought the guitar on Ebay from a HOC member "Tallershadows" and he has a great rep on ebay as well as here so I totally did not suspect anything about the serial # , and I assumed the funny serial # was that it was a LW . I will certainly call Heritage tomorrow and check it out ! Dang maybe I was blinded by the looks and I still don't suspect anything. The guitar plays great and is set really low . My Luthier was amazed how low and no buzzing on the frets! I have a 150LW and there is nothing different about the serial number compared to my other non LW 150's. I have never seen the Made in USA instead of the Made in Kalamazoo, MI USA. That is very weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuz Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 As far as the nut goes, a bone nut is an upgrade. And $60 for a good filed nut and quick set up is not out of the ball park. I prefer bone nuts, but since the nuts on my Heritage work fine & don't catch or "ping" I have not changed them out just to do it. I did put in a bone nut on my 525, but it was worn down too far, so I just had my luthier put a new bone nut in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyGrass Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 The serial number is typical for the year. Don't worry about that. The bone nut will make a small difference only on open notes. If you don't play many open notes, don't do it. Use the $60 for something special, like dinner with a friend. For reference, a bone nut costs about $7 extra in this part of the world, $20 vs. $27 for a new nut. I choose bone nuts because the sustain is generally better and there's minimal cost difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Beautiful guitar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jastan Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 i recently bought a 2005 H150 and had the nut replaced. The original had been cut wrong and I couldn't get the action low without the g string buzzing. I went with a bone nut and have been pleased with the results. I paid $105 but that included a setup, rewiring and the nut/installation. Keep in mind this is NYC but I actually think the price was pretty reasonable for the city. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HRB853370 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 The serial number is typical for the year. Don't worry about that. The bone nut will make a small difference only on open notes. If you don't play many open notes, don't do it. Use the $60 for something special, like dinner with a friend. For reference, a bone nut costs about $7 extra in this part of the world, $20 vs. $27 for a new nut. I choose bone nuts because the sustain is generally better and there's minimal cost difference. How do you tell the year of mfg with no letter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyGrass Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 The letter was placed above the numbers that year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HRB853370 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 The letter was placed above the numbers that year. Ah, ok, that sure doesnt look like a letter, looks more like a symbol or a dealy-ma-bob as Shundog put it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazzerous Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Here is the pic from the inside of the cover. Looks like the W was put above the serial # and the smeer below the W is just a mistaken smeer of the same W ! i tried to call the Plant and they are shut down till the 10th! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazzerous Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Sorry forgot to mention I don't have the Original HRw's but thinking about getting them to complete the packadge ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golferwave Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 A 2006 model, you got one of the early lightweights. The serial numbers are hand stamped on the back of the headstock and sometimes the letter/numbers are hard to read. Enjoy your new H-150! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallershadows Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 That was the second heritage I ever owned. The first was another H150 which weighed 11lbs. I purchased that from Golferwave. It is transparent black with tan b/s, and is a beauty. I wanted one that was lighter, so I purchased that H150 LW from Jay Wolfe (well acutally, Graham Zebedee at Wolfe's shop). It originally came with HRWs, but I wanted something slightly warmer so after trying numerous pups, found the motor city pups which sound great. The original HRWs were sold a couple of years ago. As for the nut, I personally didn't find any deficiency in sound or playing. My personal two cents is why fix something if it isn't broken? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoNameBand Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Go for the Bone, I have it on all of my best guitars. It lasts longer, the strings won't cut in to it and better tone/sustain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HRB853370 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Here is the pic from the inside of the cover. Looks like the W was put above the serial # and the smeer below the W is just a mistaken smeer of the same W ! i tried to call the Plant and they are shut down till the 10th! Ahh, just out deer hunting, they do that when not building fine guitars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HRB853370 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Go for the Bone, I have it on all of my best guitars. It lasts longer, the strings won't cut in to it and better tone/sustain. Whats your recommendation for drum heads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoNameBand Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Aquarian Super Kick II base drum & Aquarian Super-2 Drumheads with Studio-X Ring for toms. In my humble opinion, nothing sounds better in the studio or live when miced up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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