zguitar71 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 I just rewired my 150gt with an Rs Guitarworks 50' style setup with the Grey Tiger caps (.oo22). I really like the results. I know some people do not think the caps make a difference but I do think they did. The pots are 550K and the old pots tested to be 514 and 513 so it is little brighter from that but not much. The volume sweep is better and the clarity is now consistent through the sweep where as before the tone would get muddy when I turned the volume down. The tone overall is more open and woody (cliche) and has more of the p-90 woman type tone (again cliche). While I had the wiring and pickups out of the guitar I painted the inside with conductive paint and lined the covers with copper tape in hopes of cutting down on the buzz and pops from static. So far the pops are gone from static build up that releases when I play with a fleece jacket on. I have not played in the "buzz" club where I can only use humbuckers due to the horrid buzz I get from their power. The tone is the biggest plus even though I did it for the clarity when I use the volume. Here is a pic: I did have one brain fart when I wired it, it was a grounding issue that I resolved easily, the wrong way is shown in the picture, do you see it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 That hum seems to be a very common problem... But I really believe it could be from your rig too. Do you use isolated power supplies for your pedals and a power conditioner for your amp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguitar71 Posted December 7, 2012 Author Share Posted December 7, 2012 I only get that bad buzz at one particular club. The back side of the wall behind the stage houses all the power meters for the entire building, probably 100+ meters back there in a room behind the stage, they go to apartments on the 6 floors above the club. The building has other clubs in it and the farther I get from the bad stage the less of a buzz I get. Most places I do not have much of a problem at all. I did not use any pedals there, just the amp cable and a guitar. I have not ever run a conditioner for the amp, maybe I should look into that, I really not too familiar with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 That sounds like dirty power.... A Furman power conditioner will help up you out a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguitar71 Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 I will look into it. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 This is what I use... http://www.guitarcenter.com/Furman-SS-6B-Surge-Block-102539863-i1125139.gc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuz Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Nice job!! I converted all 4 of my 150s, and my Custom 555 to '50s wiring with RS GuitarWorks pots and either Bumble Bee or Gray Tiger caps!!!! I left the archtops to modern wiring because the dip in highs from the volume pot is useful for jazzy stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguitar71 Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Nice job!! I converted all 4 of my 150s, and my Custom 555 to '50s wiring with RS GuitarWorks pots and either Bumble Bee or Gray Tiger caps!!!! I left the archtops to modern wiring because the dip in highs from the volume pot is useful for jazzy stuff. The 555 must have been a big job going through the f hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuz Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 The 555 must have been a big job going through the f hole. Well, I had a luthier do it and since it was a new RS GWs harness it was pretty straight forward for him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 I'm having my Dot rewired now. I should ask for 50's wiring before its too late. I won't work on it myself since its only accessible by F holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 I'm having my Dot rewired now. I should ask for 50's wiring before its too late. I won't work on it myself since its only accessible by F holes I rewired my 535 by myself. I purchased a complete harness, pulled the old harness, got the new one in, soldered the p'ups. It wasn't a quick 10 minute swap, but it's also not brain surgery. If I can do it, anyone can. Just takes a little time and patience (2 things I'm notoriously lacking) , and floss. Keep in mind that there is usually a sizable opening between the bridge p'up route and the pot cavity, usually larger than the f-hole opening. parts were threaded through that in my case. Also, many new harness' will come with a "pigtail", three leads for the pickups allowing for soldering the p'ups without having to access the pots. Making both the initial install and any subsequent p'up swaps very simple. this is my new harness pre install, you can see the 8" pigtail clearly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuz Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Yep, the pig tail is just awesome to be able to switch pups so easily. I have one on my Cust 555 and switch 3 sets of pups until, yet again, the Throbaks just out shined every other set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 I rewired my 535 by myself. I purchased a complete harness, pulled the old harness, got the new one in, soldered the p'ups. It wasn't a quick 10 minute swap, but it's also not brain surgery. If I can do it, anyone can. Just takes a little time and patience (2 things I'm notoriously lacking) , and floss. Keep in mind that there is usually a sizable opening between the bridge p'up route and the pot cavity, usually larger than the f-hole opening. parts were threaded through that in my case. Also, many new harness' will come with a "pigtail", three leads for the pickups allowing for soldering the p'ups without having to access the pots. Making both the initial install and any subsequent p'up swaps very simple. this is my new harness pre install, you can see the 8" pigtail clearly. It's a fiddly job but worth it just so you know you have conquered your fear and can say (without laughing) 'I am Man the Hunter, hear me roar!!!' I've never dropped a new harness into a semi-hollow before - how did you handle hooking up the earth wire from the tailpiece to the switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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