chico Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Its just one of the four, how does one best solve that problem? tx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushover Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 My past solutions have been: If it's a split top shaft on the pot, I pry a screw driver in the slot, widen it out a little, and refit the knob. If it's a solid shaft on the pot I cut a tiny peice of paper put it on top of the shaft and then jam the knob over the paper and the shaft. The paper thickness is usually enough to allow the knob a tighter fit so it stays put., but you can always fold the paper in two for thickness.. The last approach with paper is a stupid little trick, but seems to work for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoslate Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 CAREFULLY!!! You'll notice the pot's shaft, onto which the knob fits, is split. You can take a small screwdriver and place the blade gently into the slot in the shaft, and applying the slightest of pressure, wiggle the blade back and forth to widen or open that slot just slightly. Then see if the knob can be pressed back onto the pot shaft, with just the slightest bit of resistance, just enough that the knob may be pressed all the way onto the shaft and stay put. I counsel caution in this because the pot shaft is very soft (aluminum or pot metal?), and if prised too enthusiastically, the side of the shaft against which you're pressing will snap off, necessitating the installation of a new pot! And don't forget to turn the shafts of all the knobs all the way in one direction (10) or the other (1) to line the reinstalled knob up with the other knobs on the guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawGuy Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 I've used the paper trick on a few Strat knobs that were a bit loose, it works quite well. You could also use a small piece of plumbers tape, Teflon Tape (PTFE). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brentrocks Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 PAPER TECHNIQUE FOR ME TOO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCovach Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 The plumber's tape option works best, in part because you can wrap the shaft as much as you need, and the tape will maintain the contour of the grooves, increasing the grip on the knob. This all sounds vaguely pornographic, doesn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawGuy Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 The plumber's tape option works best, in part because you can wrap the shaft as much as you need, and the tape will maintain the contour of the grooves, increasing the grip on the knob. This all sounds vaguely pornographic, doesn't it? Are we still talking about guitars ? ;D ;D ;D This thread could be entitled "Auto Erotic Guitar Repairs" :angel: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoslate Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 The plumber's tape option works best, in part because you can wrap the shaft as much as you need, and the tape will maintain the contour of the grooves, increasing the grip on the knob. This all sounds vaguely pornographic, doesn't it? LMAO!! I question the efficacy of the term "vaguely" in mitigating your post, John! Who you think you're foolin'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chico Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 Thanks for all the responses guys. It is the split shaft version. I have tried the paper trick, it works to a degree, was wondering about using the plumber tape but never tried it. nervous about using a flathead screwdriver to flange it out some, easy to slip and scratch the top (OH NO!!!) I may try the screwdriver tip, I'll followup with what I actually did. I hate the thought of the knob falling off while at a gig or somewhere it could be lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoslate Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Thanks for all the responses guys.It is the split shaft version. ...nervous about using a flathead screwdriver to flange it out some, easy to slip and scratch the top (OH NO!!!) I may try the screwdriver tip, I'll followup with what I actually did. I hate the thought of the knob falling off while at a gig or somewhere it could be lost. As you gently wiggle the screwdriver in the split in the shaft, hold the shaft between the thumb and forefinger of your free hand to prevent the screwdriver from slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davesultra Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 I was hoping that this thread would get a bit more X-rated. I was gonna' audition for the part of the "Pizza delivery guy". More seriously though, I'd opt for the plumbers tape thing. I've broken many tabs off of split shaft pots even when using the slightest pressure. Oddly enough, I've found that the brass ones snap easier than the pot metal/aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thundersteel Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 I was hoping that this thread would get a bit more X-rated. If if gets any more saucy, I'm going to have to move this thread to The Family Tree. :police: Wait--that doesn't sound right! X-rated material in the FAMILY Tree--uh, I gotta go! ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Seacup Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 You could also use a small piece of plumbers tape, Teflon Tape (PTFE). I was going to suggest that, but you beat me to it. I did that on some guitar or other (something Stratocaster-ish, as I recall) and could never get the damn knob off again without putting a towel on the top and levering it off with a screwdriver. The screwdriver in the split shaft works, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawGuy Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 I was going to suggest that, but you beat me to it. I did that on some guitar or other (something Stratocaster-ish, as I recall) and could never get the damn knob off again without putting a towel on the top and levering it off with a screwdriver. The screwdriver in the split shaft works, too. A tiny drop of WD40 on the PTFE should help with that. .... it's getting kinky now ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Seacup Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 A tiny drop of WD40 on the PTFE should help with that. .... it's getting kinky now ! You know what else WD-40 is good for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawGuy Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 You know what else WD-40 is good for? Probably about 40 other things ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brentrocks Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Probably about 40 other things ;D you can get WD-40 in Ireland? ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawGuy Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 you can get WD-40 in Ireland? ;D Yes and t'internet too ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thundersteel Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Ok, here's a trivia question: What does "WD-40" signify? In other words, why is it called "WD-40?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawGuy Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Ok, here's a trivia question: What does "WD-40" signify? In other words, why is it called "WD-40?" http://www.naturalhandyman.com/qa/qawd40.html "According to the WD-40 Company, the name "WD-40" originated in 1953 when the product was first developed. The company, originally known as the "Rocket Chemical Company", was trying to design a protectant for metal parts on rockets to prevent rust and corrosion by displacing water... hence the "WD" for water displacement. The "40", on the other hand, indicates that the formula (still in use today, by the by) was the 40th attempt to get it right! And they did. Talk about persistence!" I thought myself that it was because it has 40 different uses, you learn something new every day ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brentrocks Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Ok, here's a trivia question: What does "WD-40" signify? In other words, why is it called "WD-40?" for the record, i knew that ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thundersteel Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 "According to the WD-40 Company, the name "WD-40" originated in 1953 when the product was first developed. The company, originally known as the "Rocket Chemical Company", was trying to design a protectant for metal parts on rockets to prevent rust and corrosion by displacing water... hence the "WD" for water displacement. The "40", on the other hand, indicates that the formula (still in use today, by the by) was the 40th attempt to get it right! And they did. Talk about persistence!" Correct! It was used during the Atlas missile program in the 50s. I guess that makes WD-40 as good as 50s Gibsons (and modern Heritages), eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faultline Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 sorry i don't have any wisdom to share on the history of wd-40 ... but when a knob is falling off, i use the methods mentioned previously to spread the split shaft, usually put a polish cloth around the shaft just in case the screwdriver slips ... then i trim a heavy pick to make a shim to fill the slot on the shaft. This seems to help with the sides of the shaft moving inwards again ... this also helps when using knobs for solid shafts on split shaft pots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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