fretless Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 I have noticed a difference when swapping hardware though in my case it was a positive change when swapped to the new Faber ABRN , 59 tail & INserts with Tone-locks . The whole shebang went on this LP . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamison162 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Just more info for those who care. I weighed the Faber bridges on a digital postal scale. The older ABR (more vintage correct build) weighs 1.8oz, the newer one with the nylon washers weighs 1.6oz. The newer one says "Faber-Germany" on the bottom and has a PW circled, it's made by Ping. Which just confirms my experience with the Fabre bridge and tp. But again, I have zero issues with the steel BSWkits and the steel "tone-loc" studs. Those are GREAT!!! Also weighed the zinc Gotoh tp @ 2.7oz and the Faber aluminum @ 1.1oz. I'll weigh the Gotoh aluminum next time I change strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 I just did the entire Faber retrofit (Tone Lok Master Kit & iNserts) on my 535, and I loved everything about it. I went with "aged-nickel" so the finish is jacked up anyway. Loved the locking collar design, and the ABR dimensions as opposed to Nashville that was on there. I don't have the frame of reference you do with an earlier generation of product. That would disappoint me as well, no doubt. All that to say, it installed wonderfully, intonated perfectly, and functions as advertised, and I'm really happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamison162 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Kidsmoke, Fretless (and others)... Please don't take my posts personally. I'm not knocking anyone's projects, efforts or judging your results. I've been doing this (guitar tech work) for going on 22 yrs now. I'm just sharing my ideas, thoughts and information - what I've learned researching this stuff and my own experiences. I owned a business doing this up until I relocated 3 yrs. ago. Again, what I'm saying here....my suggestions and advice... is more for others who may come along looking to do the same type of upgrades, not to discount you guys sharing your experience. Let's have a discussion and not argue the generalities. When I bought my H150 Goltop in '07, I believe all the hardware was Schaller-Germany (aside from the Grover Tuners). I'm not sure who makes the Tone Pros stuff these days but I suspect it is Schaller, possibly Gotoh? I honestly don't know. What I do know is that the 2nd Faber bridge that I received with the locking collars says "Faber-Germany" on the bottom but is in fact made in China by Ping. I've also read on the Les Paul Forum that some Faber bridges say "FJ" or something similar (other Chineses Factory). By my own personal experiences with these bridges, the Faber-Ping bride, in my case, was/is definitely inferior to the previous Faber ABR (non-locking) that I had purchased. In the end, one has to question what you really are accomplishing but replacing an allbeit "non-locking" German made Schaller or TonePros? bridge with a Ping. Same goes for the tailpiece, based on the quality of the Faber aluminum tailpiece I have I would not be surprised at all if it's also made by Ping. As far as the INsert kit, other than converting the post to fit an ABR bridge instead of the Nashville, one has to ask what are you really accomplishing? If you are considereing upgrading to an ABR bridge, why would someone *not* want to go with the BSWkit, the posts threaded directly into the wood and not using a Nashville style bushing is the whole point of an ABR bridge (for the most part). Even Larry states in one of his videos that the INsert kit is good, but not as good as the BSWkit. The BSWkit is simple to do, if I can do it anyone can, really. In summary - I'll just post my suggestions for anyone interested or just up for discussion - of the mods that I feel make the most difference, are worthwhile, and really bring any LP style guitar as close to vintage specs and tone as possible. 1) Tuners: I really, really dig the current 15:1 Tonepros Klusons (TPK33 or TPKB3). Solid cast housings, not stamped/crimped and titanium gears. 2) Unbleached bone nut. Stew-Mac now carries pre-notched unbleached bone nuts and it's real easy to do the final fitting. 3) Faber: I highly recommend the Faber BSWkit steel studs for ABR bridges and the Tone-Loc steel locking tailpiece studs. 4) Tailpiece bushings: If not steel (magnetic), they are probably brass. I recommend replacing with 1" steel bushings from Gotoh or Retro-Spec Guitars. (FYI - the tailpiece boring depth on my H150 measured 1.30"). 5) Tonepros or Gotoh ABR bridge. The Faber locks but I am just not a fan of the Ping stuff. 6) Gotoh lightweight aluminum tailpiece. Unless you want to pay the $$ for the Gibson, RSGuitarWorks, Pigtail stuff. 7) Electronics. I use CTS 550k 10% SS pots (CTS still uses a non-silkscreened carbon path), Luxe BumbleBee Caps 0.022uF/0.015uF to taste, Switchcraft 3 way toggle and 1/4" jack, all 22awg braided shield wiring (yes this makes a huge difference, 4 conductor is much smaller, foil shielded and poly coated and does affect your signal in a negative way), 50's style wiring. Also, I've tried all varieties of CTS pots even the RS Super Pots (did not like the taper at all, just don't get them) but the Retro-Spec TVT "True Vintage Taper" pots are really good. A good set of PAF's from your favorite winder and your set. Again, this is all opinion and would be my personal preference and what I would do for my cusomers. Not unfounded, this info. stems from hours and hours of my own my personal reseach, tinkering, A/B'ing and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gitfiddler Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Jamison162~ Thanks for all of your insights. Are you located on the left coast? If so, I'd sure like to consider using your services. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamison162 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Jamison162~ Thanks for all of your insights. Are you located on the left coast? If so, I'd sure like to consider using your services. I'm in Florida actually. Don't really do this anymore except for locals and close friends. I'm playing out more now for once, got one of the best bands together that I've ever played in, 3 gigs this month, 2 big festivals. And I'm still under 40! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Kidsmoke, Fretless (and others)... Please don't take my posts personally. I'm not knocking anyone's projects, efforts or judging your results. Not at all, man! Good info all around. The more experiences and results shared, the better for those coming along after! similarly, my 'one and done" order from Larry worked out great for me, and I'm playing an improved guitar. Still reading and learning, and open to making it even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolero Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 this is a great thread, thx again to everyone for contributing!!! lots of good info, I am upgrading my Schaller roller bridges to ABR and this sure helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeyh1485 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Awesome thread I I would really love to hear a before and after comparison I found this comparison with a stock/tonepros/resomax bridges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.