kidsmoke Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Great post! This sort of detail shows how much money is wasted taking guitars to techs when it's perfectly possible for the average Joe to handle. Thanks Agreed! Fretless, well done on the photography! And thanks for sharing. I'm really getting excited about all the changes in store for my 535. Faber kit to come next week, and I'll be sharing as you have, although I suspect without the photographic skill you posses. For the record, I did raise the bushings to be flush with the top on my guitar, and I'm already surprised by the increase in sustain. I think the depth was an even bigger issue than I believed. I have a solo I play frequently, with ringing whole notes, that would die out prematurely. It was the one weak spot on this guitar, and a reason I though about the locking bridge etc. I'll be putting the hardware on as soon as it arrives so that I can attest to any change. If I wait and do it with the p'ups and wiring, as I had planned, I won't know for sure it's impact. So Kidsmoke, what did you end up doing to correct the tailpiece tilt? Or, are you still working on that? faber kit. I really wasn't that bothered by the tilt itself. But realizing now the impact of the hardware....I should have been. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Agreed! Fretless, well done on the photography! And thanks for sharing. I'm really getting excited about all the changes in store for my 535. Faber kit to come next week, and I'll be sharing as you have, although I suspect without the photographic skill you posses. For the record, I did raise the bushings to be flush with the top on my guitar, and I'm already surprised by the increase in sustain. I think the depth was an even bigger issue than I believed. I have a solo I play frequently, with ringing whole notes, that would die out prematurely. It was the one weak spot on this guitar, and a reason I though about the locking bridge etc. I'll be putting the hardware on as soon as it arrives so that I can attest to any change. If I wait and do it with the p'ups and wiring, as I had planned, I won't know for sure it's impact. faber kit. I really wasn't that bothered by the tilt itself. But realizing now the impact of the hardware....I should have been. Thanks man ! nah it's all luck and a digital camera . Very good to hear about your guitar and I very much look forward to your thoughts on the upgrades . Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Agreed! Fretless, well done on the photography! And thanks for sharing. I'm really getting excited about all the changes in store for my 535. Faber kit to come next week, and I'll be sharing as you have, although I suspect without the photographic skill you posses. For the record, I did raise the bushings to be flush with the top on my guitar, and I'm already surprised by the increase in sustain. I think the depth was an even bigger issue than I believed. I have a solo I play frequently, with ringing whole notes, that would die out prematurely. It was the one weak spot on this guitar, and a reason I though about the locking bridge etc. I'll be putting the hardware on as soon as it arrives so that I can attest to any change. If I wait and do it with the p'ups and wiring, as I had planned, I won't know for sure it's impact. faber kit. I really wasn't that bothered by the tilt itself. But realizing now the impact of the hardware....I should have been. I'm going to try an experiment this weekend . I currently have Tonepros locking studs on my 137 . I originally went with these thinking I would need the adjustability for the string height as it's a wraparound . Now though I have the idea that maybe the Faber studs will work with one of the spacer combinations and lock down like a s.o.b. Also I noticed the bushings are a wee sunk in and perhaps a spacer will take care of that as well , or a spacer under the bushing .We'll see , I'll get some pics and let you know what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 I'm watching the mail now for my faber master kit and INsert bridge kit. I didn't realize you were also doing a rewiring on that same guitar, fretless. seems we're of one mind with these axes. That and a new set of PAF's are coming right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I'm watching the mail now for my faber master kit and INsert bridge kit. I didn't realize you were also doing a rewiring on that same guitar, fretless. seems we're of one mind with these axes. That and a new set of PAF's are coming right up. I can't wait to see your posts on those mods and look forward to hearing your thoughs on the whole shebang . I did that rewire on another guitar and this 137 is just fine so I'm not going to change it but again can't wait to see yours ! Cheers , oh that geetar up there is a Gibby Smartwood studio , it got the rewire , and the 137 below currently has the tonepros studs w/ Faber wraparound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Wow, that was quick and easy! Looks great. Did you turn some of the saddles around? I noticed the original pic of the new bridge had three break angles going the opposite of the other three, but the finished product looked like they were all the same.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Wow, that was quick and easy! Looks great. Did you turn some of the saddles around? I noticed the original pic of the new bridge had three break angles going the opposite of the other three, but the finished product looked like they were all the same.... Do you mean my Gibby ? I did flip 3 saddles . A , D & G got flipped . I don't know if it matters much but it just seem to make sense . The G did need to come back and so out of luck It was a good call to do before it was all strung up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 This pic... versus this pic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Yes , the top pic was the way it arrived out of the box, I looked around a good bit and it seems like an old school set up so maybe that is why the Faber shipped like that , but from what I could tell it either didn't matter or the saddles correct postion if there was one is for the break angle to be facing the way I turned them and the E & G flipped to allow them to go back more for intonation , which is the most important thing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 ah, ok. I was wondering about that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 ah, ok. I was wondering about that... me too actually . I wonder how these little things start and continue to be used today . Perhaps it was for different strings back then like flats or for some other reason ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DetroitBlues Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 very well might of been. Perhaps it also allows innotation to be adjusted a little more further back or foward depending on what side its on and how much space you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 very well might of been. Perhaps it also allows innotation to be adjusted a little more further back or foward depending on what side its on and how much space you need. I'm speculating that this is the reason the Nashville bridge was developed in the first place...more travel for proper intonation?? For the record....I received the faber kit. Everything looks fantastic. Can't believe the weight difference between the zinc tail and the aluminum tail. I did the same INsert bridge post replacement that fretless documented so well already, so no process photos necessary. One problem....and it's allllll me....I failed to do a "just to be sure" check on the tail bushings, and this is in fact a standard (5/16-24) thread on my guitar. Several folks stated with 99% certainty that these would be metric, but they're not. So I've got a brief delay while CV gets the other bolts out to me. Worth the trip to the hardware store kids.... I suspect that this is likely due to the fact that Ed Roman set this guitar up and probably did the hardware installation, as well as the electronics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectrum13 Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 I think they are called nashville bridges because Gibson could not center the studs properly when they left Kalamazoo. Without Marv, Jim and J.P.& company and needed the extra travel to make up for the alignment. . The bridge is stronger and is less likely to collapse from string pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Ok Fellas I have what I think is good news . I removed the Tonepros studs , which are excellent as you all know and added Faber Studs which lock down onto the top of the bushing . The problem that we see here is the bushing is deeper into the body and not flush . The Faber studs come with 3 x spacers to set the bridge height . So here we go... originally setup with TP studs bushings are set into the body and I tapped them in all the way so they are down there and hitting bottom. This is Fabers largest spacer of the 3 ( one is in the body the other sits next to it so you can gauge the size ) as it sits on top of the bushing and extends over the body a bit . I was going to use the med. spacer but that just barely mated to the bushings top and also rested right on the body and I didn't want to dent in the body or crack the finish when it gets locked down so I didn't risk it. as she sits and locked , with the large spacer on the bottom and the smallest spacer on top of that ,one of my main concernes and a major difference is the Faber is height adjusted by the spacers and may not be enough flexibility of adjustment for some Folks when it comes to bridge height , like this wrap around ( Tail height not as much as an issue). For me it's darn near perfect if not just a hair higher than before . If I were to try to lower it from here I would need to remove the sm Faber spacer and just get a nice stainless steel spacer from the hardware store though I probably wont and heres why . It sounds shockingly good , like a harp . Simply wonderful and infinitely better so I'm not going to mess with it but rather go track it lastly here are 2 picks , where it was set before with total height adjustability and where it sits now on the large and small spacer. TP's Faber As 137 owners know one can only go so low before you hit the bridge p/u . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 I intend to get some decent photos....and I still haven't finished the total refurb job....but the hardware's been swapped. And I love it. Removed: the stock TOM, a tonepros style (gotoh? "made in germany") nashville bridge and stoptail, chrome plated. Installed: Faber iNsert bridge studs Faber ToneLok Master Kit which includes ABR bridge with locking collars, Aluminum stop tail, tail studs and locking spacers, all in Aged Nickel top wrapped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkKitty Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Looks good, KS. Gotoh would likely be "Made In Japan". "Made in Germany" sounds like Schaller to me. Did you ever get those new pickups in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidsmoke Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Looks good, KS. Gotoh would likely be "Made In Japan". "Made in Germany" sounds like Schaller to me. Did you ever get those new pickups in? Probably Schaller then. Nope on the p'ups. He had targeted last Monday, which would have been an improvement on his normal lead times, so I haven't made it an issue. maybe this week? dunno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretless Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I intend to get some decent photos....and I still haven't finished the total refurb job....but the hardware's been swapped. And I love it. Removed: the stock TOM, a tonepros style (gotoh? "made in germany") nashville bridge and stoptail, chrome plated. Installed: Faber iNsert bridge studs Faber ToneLok Master Kit which includes ABR bridge with locking collars, Aluminum stop tail, tail studs and locking spacers, all in Aged Nickel top wrapped Good to hear ! Did it all work out with the bushings being inset ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolero Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I saw this gtr at PSP V, it is indeed a killer 535!! nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamison162 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Good thread....I really dig the Faber hardware, well all except the aluminum tailpiece I got, it seems subpar quality wise. The finish isn't that great and the casting is pitted a good bit around the stud collars. I'm gonna try another Gotoh aluminum sometime (not gonna spend the $$ for a Gibson, or Pigtail, etc.) I went to the Faber system on my H150 about 2 yrs ago. I really dig the locking ABR w/brass saddles and the steel posts. I did mine before the Insert kit so I had to retap the bridge posts, the BSKit or whatever it is (no biggie), so I have steel threaded posts directly into the wood rather than the retrofit bushings. The steel tailpiece studs and spacer system is genius. Only thing I did not do was replace the stock tailpiece bushings - I have no idea if they are brass, steel or zinc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamison162 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Doh!! My time to edit is expired I guess. Be careful on the Fabre ABR's. I actually have two of them, the oldest is the closest to a true vintage ABR in that the screws have the cast in washer, no "c" clamps or nylon washers. The top groove that the actual saddles sit on are full length. This is very common even on current Gibson, Gotoh an other ABR bridges. The new Fabre's (locking and non-locking bridges - I have one of these also) as pictured below and on the website, IMO, are inferior to the first ABR I mentioned due to the nylon washers and shear lack of solidity. There's gaps in the top where the saddles sit to allow for the "c" clamps, etc. I've tried both bridges on the steel bskit posts that I drilled and the ABR with nylon washers sounds much "duller", kind of dead and dark if you will. A tone sucker IMO. So be warned! The first bridge that I got from Faber sounds better, I wonder if it's Gotoh or an older Shaller design. I may drill the post holes larger to allow me to use the locking bridge caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamison162 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 One more thing worth noting is that the saddles on the new Fabre ABR are a little smaller (not a wide, front to back) as the original and the angle is different. I could get out my digital calipers and measure, but it's late. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamison162 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 More accurate ABR for comparison sake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectrum13 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Bummer man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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