Steiner

Having spent decades analyzing data from million dollar Coordinate Measuring Machines (CMMs) and Computer Numerical Control (CNC) devices, I understand that PLEK is a combination of the two. Certainly a cool idea but the ability of a machine to do its thing is heavily dependent on fixturing / how the guitar is held. Given the variation of neck size and profiles, I will not get any instrument I own within a country mile of one of these things. Heritage had a PLEK years ago that evolved into a coat rack; with their process of hand-rolling necks, I don't think they were happy with the results.

That whole guitar is a piece of a craftsman's nightmare to build yet a stunning piece of eye-candy!

I told him to stay out of the quicksand...

The Centurian screams "Let's party lie it's 1999!"

I like the way you're thinking; sans the pine. Pine loads up and contributes to tools burns on the hardwoods. Be prepared to clean after the pine project. Machine/tool setup and test cuts usually eat 3/4 or more of the overall project time. When making multiple projects make sure you can replace tooling should the worst happen. One project I worked on required changing the dovetail router bit TWICE. Changes of 0.001" will have detrimental outcomes; I got lucky... I adore detailed pieces most, yet, try as much as I have, still haven't found a base project that (even though proportion

I often make two copies of projects simply to improve my chances of getting a good one. Couple that with making additional cuts with the tools already set, and you reduce the effort almost in half.

Funny you mention the D'Angelicos. I've been wanting one of the Heritage builds ever since you posted one. I also noticed in the videos @skydog52 posted today, one of the necks they showed getting rolled was a D'Angelico. Nice snatch MartyGrass!

Success!

I enjoyed your voicing concerns about ghost sounds from the cab. Been there. There's nothing like the relief you get when first firing it up to find you've done well! If I understand it, using good, voidless plywood for the baffle is key. I too screw the baffle to the cabinet. Every cab has a resonate frequency. There are many formulas out there that help define a range of bass vs treble. I tend to make cabs twice as deep as the boards I have for the project - generally 16 to 18" deep, about the same as a 4x12. There's a minimum size for 2x12 cabs but I try to keep the DxWxH dimens

Looks beautiful! Congratulations - your first heirloom.

Less we forget the Centurian...

+1 Bravo!

I see somebody has shed his post-covid funk. Welcome back SS!

I get the feeling that Green Oak Guitars May have one.

Ah, the joys of woodworking... I started with cutting boards and learned a ton. I moved to speaker cabs which are a PITA simply because they're bulky and heavy; now I've a half dozen or so extra 2X12 cherry cabs. Oops. It's addictive! You don't need a planer/jointer. A radial arm saw and/or circular saw with a track will get you there. We have a DeWalt 735 planer with a Byrd cutter (worth EVERY penny). The table saw is requisite with a good fence. We have 3 router tables, all with lifts, mandatory when 0.001" tolerances are needed. Watch for used equipment if you're good at calib