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The Grammy's. Haven't watched intentionally ever. Caught a few minutes back in the day when my kids were teens. Since getting re-married, I share my home with a 17 yr old HS senior, so it was on. I stayed in another part of the house, came into the kitchen, noticed Noah Kahan was playing, who I know and appreciate, and wouldn't you know, it's a music video prominently featuring a SB triple nickel with the pickguard in black. A rare guitar even amongst us fanboys. You figure there were 15 - 20 million viewers and Kahan is selling out stadiums these days. He's known for his semi fetish, but his go to is typically a Guild Starfire of Fender Coronado, with the occasional Fender Starcaster, or 335 thrown in, this is when he's not playing high end acoutstics. edit to add: looking at this I'm thinking it's an older custom? has block inlays and a headstock inlay but neither the headstock or neck are bound and the hardware is silver. Pawn shop find? It was a music video, not a live performance. He's lounging in the back of a Volvo stationwagon as it makes its way.

Yeah, I already now that. But some people here, as I already read changed the pinnacle bridge to an faber ABR-1 Style because the bridge is smaller and the string wont hit the back anymore.

Bridge Type Approx. Length ABR‑1 (ABR) Shorter, narrower footprint Vintage design; limited saddle travel; lighter. Nashville Longer, wider footprint Modern design; more intonation range; larger body and saddle slots. Farber is ABR-1 sized. You can also top wrap the stop tail for better clearance, but the disadvantages are scaring the surface and if your style has your palm scraping over the strings, not too comfortable. Nashville bridges are physically longer because the housing is wider and the saddles have more room to move. ABR‑1 bridges are more compact, which is why vintage Gibson spacing and post locations differ from Nashville-equipped guitars.

Hi, I cant get my stoptail high enough so the strings always touch the back of the bridge on my custom core stock bridge. Is there a smaller faber bridge that would fit? Do I need anything else for it then?

On that note: I don't understand the primes of the posters question. I have a natural fret of being tackled, but can't quite wrap my mind around tackling a threat. Superbowl predictions?

Messaged you Brent! Thanks!

I have a set of chrome HRWS if anyone needs one

Sweet 16 in an excellent 3 piece combo playing a steak house gig. Reddish sunburst with split parrelelograms. Picture to follow.

Maybe a Jim Beam…..

My 2011 cherry 137 has a huge neck also

Galloup in Big Rapids charges around $200 for a plek. I would do it myself with a beam and a radius block.

PSA: Rich Severson has a great deal going on right now. You pay $200 for yearly subscription to his entire library of songs and lessons and now he is including with that subscription, access to his Wednesday YouTube streams (meaning you sit in on the stream via Zoom and interact with him and the YT audience) plus he now has a Thursday Zoom session for subscribers only where he's available for questions. It's really a good deal. He's been at this a long time so some of the video lessons my be a little lesser quality from a visual or audio standpoint but the content is outstanding. No, I'm not getting paid to say this I'm just letting you know of something that I think is a really good deal.

I could use a pair of HRW's myself if you have them

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Pete said that the Plek machine is fully booked, just with their production. I think he might have said they run on weekends sometimes. There's no time for outside work.

Oh no mister. I asked. Got told no.

Here’s your fret tapping tool!

Just take it to 225 Parsons St. and it might be less expensive too

Yeah leveling beam to level fretboards and frets. The radius is better at establishing the fretboard radius. I find they work well to radius the top of nuts too. I have a 2001 535 that I love. I got it used in pristine condition a couple of years ago. It left the factory with a very not level fretboard. It was like a roller coaster. It was also only 9.5 radius too. Some heroic effort had been applied in its prior life to level the fret tops. It played but had buzzes here and there. it just didn’t feel right either. Some frets were as tall as new wire, some were under .030 tall. Tried everything I could think of. Then just decided to pull the frets out and do it right. After leveling the board nicely and sanding it to a 10 inch radius refretting was a snap. Having a level substrate to set the frets in meant not much leveling work was necessary. Saved a lot of meat on the frets. Moral of the story, have a good look at the fretboard. If it ain’t level, the frets won’t be either.

If you're going to tap frets make sure to have some super thin superglue and accelerator on hand to wick into the fret slots. I can't count the amount of times I've seen tapped in frets pop right back out. As for fall off, I think it's more successful on lower radius fretboards like Fender 7.25" and 9.5" radius boards, where you have to deal with the string choking on higher fret bends, but I've never needed to do it on a 12" radius or higher fretboard, and with a proper levelling I've got ridiculously low actions. Most people that play my guitars don't like how low I get those strings IMNSHO levelling beams are superior to radius blocks in getting a good fret level, while taking the least amount of metal.

This is easy you need fall off so only the last frets 12-end. Use flat file and go slow marking the tops o the frets from 11-22. Best done with under the string radius sanding tool but a flat file can work. The truss rod does not effect these frets. You want to see metal come off the frets even and slightly more pressure as toward last frets. Make sure you get rid of the 13th high fret that should show on the filings but also use a marker. Recrown the tops and polish it might take awhile but I sure would not pay that kind of money for a plek. Using a full length straight edge after your done should reveal a bit of drop in the fingerboard extension. Not much but just enough to keep action low.

Tap, check, tap again. Straighten the neck and let the weight of the beam do all the work. There's been a lot of great tools out there now that make leveling and crowning a chinch.... as if I know what I'm talking about. I've been watching a ton of Milhouse Studio's YouTube channel, the English dude is rather funny but does some nice stuff he explains how he does it. He loves this stuff... FRTLZR® - Top Guitar Tools for Guitarists: Elevate Your Play Nice thing with a 137 is there is no binding or nibs to worry about.

You are going in the right direction. Tap them first. If still not resolved, spot level the high frets. I wouldn't pleck it. That machine removes too much material and if you don't have the right tech doing the job, the machine will gouge your fretboard and binding. I know some people swear by it, but what that machine did to my Les Paul Special was nothing short of a massacre.

you can make a levelling beam from scratch...